Participant’s impressions
Jacqui and Geoff’s impressions
Across the Sahara
A trip which took us back in timeless history, to a place which touched all the senses, Giving an experience of contrasts and diversity, insight and enlightenment. To a country set between the cultures and geographic differences of Africa and Europe Morocco created a complete mosaic for us as we explored its depths.
The highlights for us were:
a) The diversity but unity of the group taking part. What fun we had each creating a new identity and even accepting Berber names from our guides. We were all eager to fully participate in whatever each day threw at us which created the perfect energy to gain the most we could from each other and our new friends we met along the way.
b) The colours, sights, smells and flavours of this exciting country. Each day every twist of the road, alleyway or track gave us a new sensation to savour.
From the frenzy of Marrakech; the sudden contrast stepping from the streets to the stunning interiors; the starkness of the High Atlas; the beauty of the Dades and Draa valleys; the simpleness of the villages which seemed to grow out of the rocks; the silence of the dunes; the rawness of the market in Rissani and the charm of the old walled fishing town of Essaouira.
c) The people. So helpful and friendly. Their sense of humour, their endurance and solidarity. Not to mention the entertainment they gave us each evening culminating in a wonderful drum playing/dancing session round a camp fire in the dunes under the stars.
d) The Dunes. Sitting high up on the dunes as the sun rose in the morning feeling the energy of the earth like electricity bringing life to the day. In the silence where no moving thing could be seen I felt and heard all forms of life stirring/buzzing and it was a wonderful feeling being part of it all.
At the end of the day as light faded the dunes seemed to relax into the dusk as sounds of the night began to stir the stars took over displaying their energy for the hours to come.
e) The animals. Again quite a contrast of experiences.
Some work has been done to ensure that treatment received is acceptable as in the plaques on those horse drawn carriages in Marrakech which have been registered. The wonderful Vet Clinic – SPANA in Marrakech where such good care is taken over every animal they have to treat as well as the work they do educating school children on understanding their environment.
Most of the animals owned by nomads and the villagers in the desert have all the freedom and as much food and water as their owners can find for them.
Donkeys are still used as the main form of transport for getting to market and for moving goods around in the medinas. Some are transported on the top of vehicles, some tethered and others with ties through their noses. The hair on the sides of their bodies is often worn down to the skin with the constant rubbing of the harnesses.
Essaouira was alive with cats and kittens of all shapes and sizes. However there was some evidence, followed up by investigation, that a nuturing programme has been set up by a foreigner living locally. Some locals also had dogs on leads showing how they are being cared for as pets.
The experience for us when we agreed to see the sun rise on dromedaries was unfortunately not a happy one. There were 3 animals for the six of us so we were meant to ride two to a dromedary. One of them could barely get up and by the time its two riders were in place refused to move. The second one would not get up at all. Our one did stand up and we both mounted. We set off slowly and gingerly over the sand the dromedary stepping very deliberately and not with confidence let alone pleasure. After just a few moments one of its legs seemed to give way and it went down on both front knees, not only showing how uncomfortable he was but also dangerous for us. We returned immediately.
We both felt privileged to be part of this journey and gained much from the experience.
Our impressions and memories will be long lasting.
Thanks to all our travelling companions who helped to made it such great fun, to our guides who gave us such a personal insight and finally to those who organised the trip for us.
We hope this can help to further educate our younger generation who may slowly put an end to needless animal suffering.
Jacqui and Geoff
Ana's impressions
MOROCCO, YOU HAVE TO LIVE IT
First of all, I would like to thank Johanna for inviting me to enjoy - and, naturally, for organising- this unique experience, with a group of genuine people, whose love and respect for the animals has introduced and united us. Also I hope that love will bring us together again soon.
All that could be written will probably not be enough to describe what it has meant living and feeling the desert during these days... Its incredible vegetation, there where you don’t expect it; the perfect, magnificent dunes; travelling with the 4x4’s; those incredible sunsets, and, of course, a starry sky as I have never seen it before.
And, what can I say about the lovely dromedaries? Without a doubt, we enjoyed seeing the ones as we were crossing Morocco on our way to and going through the desert. They were peacefully eating with their litters -which were many because of the rearing time. These were without ropes on their front legs normally used to prevent them from escaping. Unfortunately, we know from other colleagues that there are many others who are used for tourism who are not that lucky. Their conditions not even allowing them to perform such work. In the same way, we were shocked by the conditions of some donkeys that have to work with both front legs tied up and an excessive load on their backs. It is obvious that the animals can help us in our everyday labour, but we cannot forget their well-being under any circumstance. It is pretty clear that a well cared animal will be happier and may provide more happiness to their travellers.
Homesick about that dreamed land, I also would like to thank the Kasbah Ouzina boys for their attentions; for caring about my vegetarian meals, and above all, for livening up the nights with their drums. What an incredible sound! And of course, thanks to our tireless 4x4 drivers too.
To my trip partners: it has been such a pleasure to share with you all a new animalist experience. This one has been frankly special, framed in that incredible scenario. I wish you the best and I hope we will meet soon on the way again...
I send you a big hug,
Ana
